|Wing ribs, channels and rear spar primed.|
|Main spars primed|
|Match-drilling rear spar doubler and rib holes|
|Match-drilling rear spar and spar doubler.|
|Assembling individual ribs|
|All wing ribs assembled|
|Left wing main and rear spars on the wing jigs.|
|Left wing ribs clecoed to spars and bottom skin.|
|Riveting left wing ribs.|
|More left wing ribs riveted.|
|All left wing ribs riveted.|
|All right wing ribs riveted.|
|Verifying alignment of left wing skins and flap.|
|Testing fit of left wing fuel cell and outboard leading edge.|
|Left wing bottom skin riveted - last few holes at rear of wing step (right side of photo) |
were not riveted because the top skin folds over in this location.
Next step was running the wiring and the pitot/static lines. The wiring runs (for the wing nav/position/strobe lights and the taxi/landing lights) were initially roughly laid out. After the final routes were determined, the wire was then placed in expandable sleeving and the sleeve was attached to the frame.
|Right wing rough wiring run.|
|Left wing leading edge ribs ready for riveting.|
|Left wing top skin, leading edge and fuel cell clecoed and ready for riveting.|
|Left wing skins, fuel cell and leading edge riveted.|
|Right wing top skin, leading edge and fuel cell clecoed and ready for riveting.|
|Skins on both ribs riveted|
Like a few other builders, I decided that I would fill in the pull rivet heads for a cleaner appearance once painted. I used a mixture of epoxy with microballoons. Droplets of the mixture were placed on each rivet head using a syringe with a very fine blunt needle. After the epoxy set, the excess was easily sanded flat. An issue that frequently ran into with this process was that air bubbles would get trapped in the epoxy and would leave gaps after sanding - necessitating a second pass of epoxy. This was a bunch of extra work, but the final product will look a lot cleaner.
|Filling rivet heads with epoxy/micro.|
|Filled rivet heads after sanding|
The final step for the wings was attaching the wingtips. The location for the wingtip light brackets was measured on each wingtip and holes were drilled for the wiring and for the rivnuts used to attach the brackets. My lights used a different size screw than that suggested in the plans - be sure to check the screw sizing for your lights to ensure you use the correct rivnut size in this step. I used epoxy/micro to smooth out the seam between the wingtip and the wing skins. A thin coat of epoxy was also smoothed over the entire wingtip to fill in any pinholes. After sanding, this left a nice surface for future painting.
After finishing the wingtips, it was time to build a wing stand for storing the wings while completing the fuselage. I just sort of free-lanced the wing stand. I had seen many photos of wing stands with the carpet sling for the wingtips and a solid frame for the wing root, so I just sketched out something that I thought would work. Wheels were added to allow the stand to be easily moved in the workshop.
|Location for wingtip light brackets marked off on both wingtips.|
|Wingtip light brackets installed.|
|The front edges of the wingtip rib required some trimming to fit without denting the skin|
|Left wingtip rib installed|
|Left wingtip clecoed on and ready for riveting.|
|Smoothing the seam between the skin and the wingtip using epoxy/micro.|
|Completed wings on wing stand.|